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flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;"></div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style="color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;">View this post on Instagram</div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"></div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"></div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);"></div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style="width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"></div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"></div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"></div> </div> <p> </p> <!--Advertisement Start--><div class="ad-box"> <div class="theme--ads vert desktop--ads" id="div-gpt-ad-1660465822982-23337835400"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display("div-gpt-ad-1660465822982-23337835400"); }); </script> </div> </div><!--Advertisement End--> <p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/DO5OjFJjLZi/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank" rel="noopener">A post shared by GUCCI (@gucci)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <p><script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script></p> <p>إذا بدا كل شيء فوضويًا، فذلك لأن الفوضى كانت دائمًا لغة ديمنا. ففي بالنسياغا، فكّك مفهوم الفخامة ذاته، وجرّ السخرية والعبث إلى أقصى حد. قدّم لنا قمصان DHL كموضة راقية، وأقام عرضًا وسط حفرة طين، وحوّل السجادة الحمراء إلى ميم حين أرسل المشاهير ملفوفين بشريط تحذيري من الرأس حتى القدم. لكن في أواخر 2024، وبعد سنوات من إثارة الجدل ومواجهة عواصف العلاقات العامة، غادر بالنسياغا فجأة. صُدمت الصناعة: هل انتهى عصر ديمنا؟ هل ابتلعته صدمة “القيمة الاستفزازية” التي صنعها بنفسه؟</p> <!--Advertisement Start--><div class="ad-box"> <div class="theme--ads vert desktop--ads" id="div-gpt-ad-1660465822982-23337838745"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display("div-gpt-ad-1660465822982-23337838745"); }); </script> </div> </div><!--Advertisement End--> <p>الجواب كان لا. ففي يناير 2025، أعلنت غوتشي تعيينه مديرًا فنيًا جديدًا. خطوة انقسمت حولها الآراء على الإنترنت. فغوتشي، التي ما زالت تبحث عن هويتها بعد فترة الخيال الماكسيمالي لأليساندرو ميكيلي ومحاولة “الفخامة الهادئة” القصيرة لساباتو دي سارنو، احتاجت إلى هزة قوية. وديمنا، سواء أحببناه أو كرهناه، كان الوعد الأمثل: إعادة تشغيل جذرية، لا عبر التدرج… بل عبر القطيعة.</p> <h2><strong>La Famiglia: القطيعة مجسّدة</strong></h2> <blockquote class="instagram-media" style="background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/DO5N5rwDJHF/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14"> <div style="padding: 16px;"> <p> </p> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;"></div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style="color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;">View this post on Instagram</div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"></div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"></div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);"></div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style="width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"></div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"></div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"></div> </div> <p> </p> <p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/DO5N5rwDJHF/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank" rel="noopener">A post shared by GUCCI (@gucci)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <p><script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script></p> <p>وهذا بالضبط ما جسّدته La Famiglia. الفكرة الأساسية – العائلة كمرآة للأنماط – قد تبدو آمنة لأول وهلة، لكن حين تدقق، لا تجد وجوهًا باسمة أو صورًا دافئة. بل شخصيات غريبة، متحدّية، ومقلقة. إنها غوتشي كما يراها ديمنا بعدسته القادمة من تقشّف أوروبا الشرقية: حيث يُحتفى بالتقاليد وتُخدش في الوقت نفسه.</p> <p>ليس غريبًا أن تهز المجموعة الوسط. فالمصمم الجورجي يتقن زعزعة إيقاعات الموضة. لا يؤمن بالمواسم ولا بتكديس الترقّب كما تفعل دور الأزياء الأخرى. يفضّل الكمين، المفاجأة، والاضطراب. بالنسبة له، يجب أن تكون الموضة غير مريحة، بل وربما عدائية أحيانًا. وبطرحه أول مجموعة مع غوتشي من دون أي إعلان مسبق، ذكّرنا بخدعته الأثيرة: إبقاء الصناعة في حالة ارتباك دائم.</p> </div> <div 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