For as long as she can remember, Safa Boudoukhane watched her mother work. Hours would pass as she sat behind an embroidery frame, meticulously guiding metallic thread into elaborate patterns using El Gorgef, a traditional Tunisian embroidery technique that has been practiced for generations. At the time, the Tunisian designer was too young to fully grasp the skill involved, but the image never left her. “I was fascinated by the patience, precision, and dedication behind every stitch. Her craft was always present in our home; it felt less like a profession and more like a way of life,” Boudoukhane tells MILLE.
Today, those memories form the foundation of BALGA, the Tunisian footwear label founded by Boudoukhane in 2019 that brings traditional craftsmanship into conversation with contemporary design. Through handcrafted shoes embroidered in Tunisia, often by her own mother, the designer is attempting something increasingly rare in an era of fast production and globalized aesthetics. She is building a business around techniques that have traditionally existed outside the spotlight.
Across North Africa, craftsmanship has long played a central role in cultural life. From Moroccan zellige tilework and Algerian embroidery to Tunisian weaving and leatherwork, generations of artisans have passed down highly specialized skills through families and local communities. Yet many of these traditions now face uncertain futures as younger generations pursue different careers and industrial production continues to replace slower, handmade methods. For Boudoukhane, that reality became impossible to ignore.
“Growing up, I saw the beauty of her work but also how little visibility traditional artisans often receive. The turning point came when I realized that many younger generations admired international luxury craftsmanship while overlooking the incredible artisanal heritage we have in Tunisia. BALGA became a way to bridge those two worlds,” she explains.
The brand’s name itself reflects that ambition. Derived from the traditional backless Tunisian slipper known as the Balgha, BALGA retains its cultural roots while adopting a spelling designed to travel more easily across borders. It is a fitting metaphor for the brand’s wider approach, one that respects heritage without treating it as something fixed in the past.
“I believe innovation starts with respect,” Boudoukhane explains. “We preserve the essence of the traditional Balgha—its craftsmanship, techniques, and cultural significance—while rethinking its proportions, materials, and silhouette. The goal is not to reproduce the past exactly as it was, but to allow it to evolve naturally into something relevant today.”
Looking at BALGA’s designs, it becomes clear that Boudoukhane has little interest in reproducing traditional footwear exactly as it once existed. Instead, sleek pointed mules are paired with sculptural heels that resemble hammered brass vessels, while hand-embroidered embellishments inspired by Tunisian decorative arts bring texture and depth to otherwise minimalist silhouettes. The shoes carry traces of Tunisia’s visual language, but they do so subtly, revealing themselves through craftsmanship, materiality, and detail rather than obvious cultural signifiers.
At the center of that effort is El Gorgef, the embroidery technique that first captivated her as a child. Historically used to embellish ceremonial garments and special-occasion clothing, the practice demands extraordinary patience and technical precision. As fewer artisans continue to master the craft, preserving it has become increasingly urgent.
“El Gorgef requires years of practice and an exceptional level of precision,” the Tunisian designer states. “As fewer artisans master it today, I felt a responsibility to help preserve and showcase this heritage through a contemporary product that people could wear and connect with every day.”
Each pair of BALGA shoes begins with a story, place, or cultural reference. Designs are developed, materials sourced, and embroidery completed by hand before skilled artisans assemble the final product. The process can take weeks, a timeline that stands in sharp contrast to the pace of modern fashion manufacturing. “There are also challenges in preserving traditional skills when fewer people are learning these crafts,” notes Boudoukhane, adding, “However, I see these challenges as part of the value of what we create.”
Beyond preserving disappearing techniques, BALGA also creates economic opportunities for the artisans behind them. In a region where traditional crafts are often undervalued or underpaid, providing consistent work allows skilled makers to earn a living from their expertise rather than abandoning it altogether. For the designer, supporting local artisans is inseparable from preserving the craft itself. Every pair produced contributes to sustaining livelihoods, helping artisans support themselves and their families while ensuring that generations of knowledge remain active rather than fading into memory. “In many ways, local production allows us to stay closely connected to the people behind each piece. We know who made it, how it was made, and the story it carries. That human connection is something I never want to lose as the brand grows.”
As for what that growth looks like, her answer remains consistent with the philosophy that has guided BALGA from the beginning. “I never want BALGA to become a brand that prioritizes quantity over quality or loses its connection to the artisans behind each piece. It means expanding thoughtfully, preserving traditional craftsmanship, and ensuring that growth benefits the people who contribute to the brand’s story. I’d rather grow steadily and authentically than scale quickly at the expense of our values,” she shares.
“My mother taught me that the most meaningful things in life require patience, dedication, and consistency,” she continues. In many ways, BALGA is proof of that lesson. Stitch by stitch, pair by pair, it is ensuring that Tunisia’s craftsmanship not only survives, but continues to evolve.
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