After several seasons of live-streamed runways and virtual presentations, Paris Fashion Week Men’s returned to the French capital last week with a calendar of in-person events that led to plenty of style on display. French-Tunisian fashion commentator Osama Chabbi shares his key looks from the spring 2023 runways.
This season, Jonathan Anderson took us on an experimental journey, testing the limits of garments and their propensity to resist extreme circumstances.
The show was held in a massive warehouse in Paris, against the backdrop of a minimalistic set-up including three concrete pillars dividing a huge white slope. As Anderson is big on symbolism, the show included various cryptic messages enabling us to think deeply of our relationship to Earth, nature, and technology.
Seeds were planted in garments and grass was growing out of coats, naturally taking the Internet by storm. Massive screens were also placed on top of jackets, inviting the audience to deep dive under the sea. On a more wearable note, athletic gear was a prominent theme at Loewe this season and micro bags are far behind: It’s the year of tote bag.
Logo mania is also not going anywhere and key-looks included heavy branded pieces and leather goods. My favorite pieces are the textured knits reminiscent of the foam that grows on trees.
The Celine spring 2023 show was amongst the key highlights of this Menswear Fashion Week. Held at the Palais de Tokyo, the runway presentation was the final show of the season giving meaning to the phrase “saving the best for last.”
Artistic Director Hedi Slimane remained loyal to his vision for the Celine man, with tailoring being the leading thread of the collection. All of this contrasting with rocker-cool pieces, which were definitely more playful and less formal adding some spice to a very Parisian vestiaire.
Slimane’s suiting keeps gaining in sharpness, flair, and aura and ties got a little thinner this season. On the other hand, fringed vests were styled on top of statement knits and a gold python blazer was the piece that particularly caught my attention. In short, this season the Celine man is on an ultimate chase of freedom and remains a party animal with impeccable taste— as usual.
We all know Jacquemus loves a good show on location and this season, the designer transported a (very exclusive) crowd on a journey to Arles. The show was held at the Salin-De-Giraud in the South of France, in the middle of the salt dunes.
At the heart of this sumptuous decor, we discovered a Neo-romanticism. The designer is going back to his good old recipe and executing his vision with more sensitivity and finesse. The color palette is neutral and each look is put together with a lot of poetry, inviting us to fall in love again. Key looks included, obviously, the most-anticipated collaboration of the season “Jacquemus x Nike,” as well the most glorious body con dresses for a hot girl summer of dreams. The result was a new sensuality, playing with the codes of glamour and transparency.