Whenever a designer unveils a new collection, most people ask one question: what do the clothes look like? Those who follow fashion a bit more closely tend to ask another: what story are they trying to tell? And with Celine’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, creative director Michael Rider probably delivered his clearest articulation of the vision guiding his tenure at the house since he joined in 2024.
Presented on the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Rider continued refining what is becoming one of fashion’s clearest creative philosophies. Rather than chasing spectacle or the next viral trend, the 45-year-old is building Celine around the idea that the best clothes are often the ones worn every day. Presented inside a Tennis Club in Paris’s 16th arrondissement, guests — including Ramy Youssef, Grace Jones and V of BTS — were handed fans and branded bottles of water to combat the French capital’s sweltering heat before settling in to witness the latest chapter of that vision.
Proposing a wardrobe designed to be worn and revisited, Rider made a compelling case for the extraordinary potential of everyday-wear. And at a time when the rising cost of living continues to reshape the way most people shop, his approach feels particularly relevant and timely. As he puts it in the show’s notes, it’s about “making do with a few great things” and “taking the time to return to things”, before distilling the collection’s philosophy into three simple words: “Risk. Style. Sincerity.”
And that ethos could be felt all throughout the runway. Rather than relying on exaggerated silhouettes or garments destined to live only on the catwalk, Rider grounded the collection in familiar wardrobe staples. Oversized black tailoring floated over crisp shirting, slouchy crewnecks were paired with voluminous trousers, while cropped zipped-up tank tops were met with tailored cigarette pants. Leather bombers, oversized trenches and knits, along withclassic black shirts — pieces found in almost any wardrobe — were subtly reworked through proportion, styling and fabrication rather than dramatic reinvention.
Accessories played a just as important role. Brooches, chunky wooden necklaces, dangling earrings and strings of charms gave the impression that each look had been assembled over years rather than for a single runway occasion. Nothing felt overly polished or precious. Shirts were left untucked, jackets hung slightly oversized, belts were loosely fastened and trousers pooled gently over sneakers and leather shoes. Speaking of sneakers, the show also marked the debut of Celine’s upcoming partnership with Reebok. Centered on the sportswear giant’s iconic Freestyle silhouette from the 1980s, the collaboration embraces the collection’s lived-in aesthetic through intentionally distressed lambskin leather, subtle signs of age and understated co-branding. Three versions appeared on the runway, though the collaboration will ultimately span six colorways in total, with the first pairs set to land in September before additional releases roll out throughout 2027.
There was something refreshingly fluid about the clothes too. Rider never seemed interested in deciding whether a garment belonged in a man’s or a woman’s wardrobe. Slim silhouettes sat comfortably beside oversized tailoring, delicate jewellery softened structured suiting, and fluid trousers moved with the same ease as classic menswear staples. Masculine and feminine codes weren’t treated as opposites but as elements to be mixed together, making the collection feel less like traditional menswear and more like a shared closet anyone could imagine pulling from.
Perhaps that’s what makes Rider’s Celine feel so convincing. Luxury here isn’t defined by excess, nor by constantly chasing what’s new. Instead, it’s measured by how often a piece is worn, how easily it slips into everyday life, and the memories it gathers along the way. In an industry built on convincing people they always need something else, Rider’s latest collection quietly argued for the opposite: a few great things are more than enough.
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