Beneath the glass roof of the Grand Palais, artist Willo Perron’s installation of a soaring black ribbon set the stage for the Chanel Fall 2025 ready-to-wear show–a collection that played with scale, layering, and the house’s most cherished signatures. But there was one thing missing: a creative director. And yet, the show must go on, and Chanel’s design team delivered a collection that honored the maison’s DNA while subtly pushing its boundaries.
The overarching theme? Proportions, or rather, the playful distortion of them. Mini jackets paired with ankle-grazing trousers, a poplin shirt that stretched to the floor, and a tiny tweed coat that morphed into a long dress with jeweled buttons.
If one motif dominated the collection, it was the bow. Chanel and bows go way back—Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel herself was often photographed with a simple bow in her bobbed hair. This season, bows cascaded down blouses and dresses, appeared as openwork cutouts on knitwear, and even made their way onto the ankles of a glossy black down jacket and sweatpants set. One long white knitted ribbon wrapped around a black sweater, ending in a dramatic shoulder bow. And then there were the accessories—heels balanced on a single pearl, bags designed to look like oversized pearl necklaces, and jewelry encrusted with maximalist rhinestones, turning everyday adornments into exaggerated, theatrical elements.
Layering was another key focus, adding depth and complexity to the silhouettes. A three-piece grenadine tweed ensemble paired a micro-jacket lined with bold red silk with a wrap skirt and flared trousers, while a bronze-hued look combined a tunic, trousers, and a buttoned-over skirt. The collection also toyed with transparency—diaphanous capes in illusion tulle softened tweed suits, while a white puff-sleeved tulle shirt transformed an ecru jacket dress into something ethereal. It was a balancing act of structure and fluidity, proving that Chanel’s mastery of tailoring doesn’t have to be rigid.
Textures played a major role, blurring the line between what’s real and what’s imagined. Silk mimicked tweed, denim was rendered in chiffon, and a black organza parka was unexpectedly adorned with bows. Even footwear leaned into the theme, with sock-ankle boots and satin bouillonné details creating a dreamy, romantic finish.
Removable ruff collars, black wool lace trench coats inlaid with faux fur, and sweaters adorned with 3D petal plastrons added a theatrical flourish, reinforcing the idea that fashion, at its core, is about storytelling.
While the collection didn’t make any radical departures, it didn’t need to—Chanel’s codes are so deeply ingrained that even in a state of flux, the house knows how to maintain its identity. But change is on the horizon. With Bottega Veneta alum and industry darling Matthieu Blazy set to take the creative reins next month, Chanel stands at the edge of a new era. His eye for craftsmanship, texture, and modern elegance has already reshaped one heritage house—what will he do with the most storied maison of them all? If this collection was about holding down the fort, Blazy’s arrival may just be the gust of fresh air that pushes Chanel into its next chapter.
