If anyone doubted whether Chemena Kamali was the right person to lead Chloé, Fall 2025 should put that to rest. With The Evolution Collection, the designer’s third ready-to-wear offering since joining the house as creative director in 2023, she further proves that there was not a better person to appoint at Chloé. This season, the designer looks to the past—but not as nostalgia. More like a conversation between generations. Clothes that look like they’ve lived, loved, and been passed from mother to daughter, best friend to best friend. The ultimate girhood experience.
The notion of plurality was a major theme for Fall 2025. The Chloé woman isn’t defined by a single narrative; she contains multitudes. She can be romantic and rebellious, delicate and powerful, nostalgic yet forward-thinking. “The Chloé woman is not always the same. Her story has many different layers, dimensions and moods. She embodies complexity and is not defined by a single identity. She is multifaceted, emotionally charged and rich with nuance. She feels opposites like all of us. She is in her heart space, in full flow,” said the designer in her show notes. This collection mirrors that complexity, blending historical references with contemporary ease, opulence with raw authenticity, and structured tailoring with flowing, ethereal fabrics.
There’s a whisper of indie sleaze in there too. That mid-2000s energy, when fashion was messy, imperfect, and thrillingly real. Think Kate Moss in a slip dress with bed hair and a vintage coat slung over her shoulders. Think Erin Wasson throwing a men’s jacket over a barely-there dress and calling it a look. That ethos—the effortlessly thrown-together, the way clothes feel better when they’ve been worn a hundred times over—is very much at play here.
Boho chic makes a return, but it’s not the overworked, hyper-styled version from the early 2010s. This is Chloé at its core—romantic (but not in the obvious way), free-spirited, and deeply personal. The flowing sheer dresses, edged with delicate lace and trailing ruffles, look like something you’d find in a vintage trunk, yet they move with modern ease. Layered fur-trimmed coats feel like heirlooms, worn with the confidence of someone who doesn’t need to try too hard. There’s a sense of undone luxury—like you threw on a decadent, quilted coat over your slip dress and ran out the door, leaving just a hint of perfume behind.
The silhouettes are fluid, the layers are intuitive, and nothing feels overly precious. A long, sweeping dress looks like it’s been worn at a hundred house parties and kissed in a hundred bars. A tailored coat has the air of something stolen from an ex, worn until it becomes yours. There’s an emotional resonance in these clothes, a sense that they’ve been lived in, that they carry the weight of past lives. The rich, earthy tones—burgundy, deep brown, dusty rose—feel grounded, while the fur trims and gold hardware add just enough opulence to remind you that this is, after all, Chloé.
The undone elegance carried through to the beauty look as well. Skin was luminous, almost bare, but perfected—thanks to Chloé’s partnership with Augustinus Bader, whose skincare expertise ensured a flawless, lit-from-within glow. It was a fresh-faced counterpoint to the collection’s lived-in feel.
And can we just talk about the accessories? Chunky heart-shaped locks and keys dangle from necklaces and bags, and a delicate belt spells out “Chloé,” while others feature twin buckles, adding a structured contrast. Compact leather coin purses wrap around wrists with opulent chain straps, and the raccoon fur stoles draped effortlessly around the shoulders bring an old world glamour to the collection, but without the stiffness.
Kamali, of course, knows Chloé inside out. She was there during the Phoebe Philo years, and she returned as Design Director under Clare Waight Keller. Her take on the house’s DNA isn’t just referential—it’s personal. And it shows. This collection isn’t reinventing the wheel; it’s about refining what makes Chloé, well, Chloé.
