Amidst the cacophony of Cairo’s soundscape, senses are drawn to the broad spectrum of colors radiating from Khayamiya street. This Cairo landmark celebrates the intricate art form of Khayamiya—a vibrant, hand-stitched appliqué of textiles which ado
The tentmakers of Khayamiya market today are the inheritors of an age-old legacy. They have been preserving these techniques across generations for over 3,000 years, standing on the shoulders of relatives before them that nurtured this craft as well. Standing as a testament to the enduring power of textile craftsmanship–which is central to Egyptian history– in small, dimly lit workshops, these artisans meticulously handcraft each piece, embodying the patience and dedication of their forebears.
The entrepreneurial prowess that thrives in this winding market is a mirror to the hardworking tent-owners
Pictures courtesy of Serag Elmeleigy
Essam and other artisans like him are the custodians of this rich legacy. Their work ensures that Khayamiya continues to flourish. With the release of Suez’s new summer collection, titled The Common Thread, the ode to this craft continues.
“Khayamiya street is an amazing experience that I couldn’t recommend more to anyone going to Cairo. It’s a hidden gem,” Serag Elmeleigy, head designer at Suez Studio said.
“The pieces that hang from the walls are some of the most intricate, impressive, and beautiful pieces of work I have ever seen. I remember when I first stumbled across them when I was researching in London, I couldn’t believe I hadn’t heard of it before. Although I am most definitely not the one to have discovered them, I would love to assist in making them more widely known,” he shared, referencing the work of Habiba Sawaf, an Egyptian artist preserving Khayamiya art in her designs.
The process of reworking fabrics is not new to Elmeleigy. In fact, it is a process with which he launched Suez Studio a few years ago. Back then, the up-and-coming designer made a name for himself for transforming Keffiyehs into bu
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“Reworking fabrics gives garments more of a story and in that, we continue its legacy. Garments already have a past, only now, they operate in the present, and then hopefully, will continue long into the future,” he explained. The centerpiece of The Common Thread collection is a series of reimagined Khayamiya jackets, each meticulously crafted to blend traditional motifs with modern silhouettes.
“When I started Suez I wanted to incorporate traditional techniques, fabrics, and motifs that originate from my background, whether that be Egypt, Iraq, or simply the wider umbrella of Arab and Islamic design,” said the designer. “Suez has helped me discover the history I wished to know, which wasn’t taught in school. My process always starts with researching the themes I want to explore in my clothes, intertwining Suez with my personal discoveries,” he continued.
His earlier House Of Wisdom tee aptly demonstrates this blend of research and design. “I watched a documentary by Jameel al Khalili about the Islamic Golden Age’s scientists, philosophers, and polymaths, centered around Baghdad’s Bayt al Hikma. Inspired, I created the House Of Wisdom t-shirt, which became our best-selling tee and set a precedent for the brand.”
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Despite these cultural landmarks being full of successful businesses showcasing highly skilled artistry, the Western design world often overlooks their entrepreneurial flair, viewing places like Khayamiya simply as “markets.”
“There is such a strong sense of Western supremacy when it comes to high fashion brands, but many designers draw incredible inspiration from the East,” Elmeleigy pointed out. “Dries Van Noten, known for beautiful embroidery and embellishments, relies on highly skilled hand embroidery artists in India. There’s a power dynamic that needs to shift; countries like India and China are often looked down upon if stated on the label, while brands prefer ‘Made in Portugal.’ Yet, the skill and quality in the East are just as high, if not higher.”
Middle Eastern heritage is a diverse mosaic, and by no means homogenous. Each culture uniquely contributes to the ongoing bloom of what it means to be Arab. Despite unifying components, a history of misrepresentation is sadly a common struggle, and Suez aims to reclaim that narrative. “Suez is as much a research project as it is about design. It’s a blessing that my work involves researching my heritage, connecting me to my culture. Through this journey, I’m grateful I’ve connected with amazing people from the Arab world on similar paths,” Elmeleigy explains.
For those in the diaspora feeling distant from their roots, Suez’s story demonstrates that our heritage conspires in favor of finding us no matter how far we are. The arms of our lost cultural background are often outstretched waiting to host us, should we ever come home. This discovery occurs in the most unexpected of times. Profoundly, the most needed of times. It is work like this that honors the hand which weaves between, before and beyond us, a common thread.
