There are few things that instantly transport me back home quite like a proper hammam. Growing up Algerian, it was never framed as a luxury or an occasional indulgence, but rather a weekly ritual that sat somewhere between self-care and social tradition. Back in Algeria, hammam day was non-negotiable, the kind of thing that anchored the week and reset everything from your skin to your mood. My parents even went as far as installing a full steam room at home, which says everything about how seriously we take it. So naturally, finding a good, authentic hammam outside of North Africa has always felt like chasing something that is hard to replicate, often missing the texture, the rhythm, or simply the soul of the experience.
Which is why I approached my visit to Behave Hair & Body Spa with a mix of curiosity and skepticism. I have tried enough so-called Moroccan baths abroad to know that authenticity is not always guaranteed, and that a good scrub can easily turn into a rushed, watered-down version of what it should be. Still, with tanning season around the corner and my skin in desperate need of a proper reset, it felt like the right time to give it another shot. There is nothing like a deep exfoliation before a tan, and I had not had a proper scrub in far too long.
For the uninitiated, a hammam, or a Moroccan bath as its more commonly known, is far more than just a cleansing treatment. Rooted in centuries-old bathing traditions across North Africa and the Middle East, it draws from Roman and Ottoman influences, evolving into a ritual that combines steam, exfoliation, and nourishment. The process is designed to open the pores through heat, soften the skin with black soap made from olives, and then remove layers of dead skin through an intense exfoliation using a textured glove known as a kessa. It is equal parts functional and indulgent, leaving your skin noticeably smoother while also giving you that rare feeling of being completely reset.
The experience at Behave begins the way it should, with heat. You walk into a softly lit, foggy room where steam hangs thick in the air, infused with eucalyptus essential oil that immediately clears your head and settles your body. There is something about that first inhale that signals you are about to properly unwind. I was guided to lie down on a warm stone slab, and within minutes, I was completely covered in black soap, the kind that feels silky and slightly grainy at the same time. Then comes the waiting, which is a crucial part of the process, allowing the steam to open your pores and soften the skin before the real work begins.
My therapist, Lubna from Casablanca, instantly put me at ease, and I knew I was in good hands. There is a certain confidence and precision that comes from someone who has grown up around this ritual, and it shows in every step. When the scrubbing began, it was exactly what I had been craving. Thorough, unapologetic, and deeply satisfying. Every inch of skin was worked over with a loofah glove, removing layers I did not even realize I was carrying around. It is not a gentle experience, nor should it be, but it is oddly relaxing in its intensity.
After the scrub, I was guided to rinse off in the in-room shower, watching the evidence of the exfoliation quite literally wash away. At this point, my skin already felt lighter, smoother, and noticeably refreshed, but the treatment was far from over. Lubna then moved on to washing my hair, applying a nourishing mask from Philip Martin’s that added an unexpected but welcome layer to the experience.
Back on the slab, the next step was the application of a ghassoul clay mask using products from Moroccan-Parisian label La Sultane de Saba. Rich, earthy, and deeply purifying, the mask was massaged into my limbs with slow, deliberate movements. The steam was turned back on, and I was left to relax for about ten minutes, allowing the clay to fully absorb and do its work. It is in these moments that the hammam becomes less about cleansing and more about stillness, forcing you to slow down in a way that feels increasingly rare.
Once rinsed, including washing out both the clay and the hair mask, I returned to the slab for the final step. A shea butter blend infused with amber and vanilla, again from La Sultane de Saba, was applied generously, sealing in all the hydration and leaving my skin with that soft, almost reflective glow. By the time I slipped into a robe and slippers and was handed a refreshment, I felt like an entirely new person, the kind of transformation that only a proper hammam can deliver.
The spa itself features two treatment rooms, including one designed for couples, which makes it just as suited for a solo reset as it is for a shared experience. But what truly sets it apart is the attention to detail and the authenticity of the ritual. This is not a watered-down version adapted for convenience, but a thoughtful recreation that respects the roots of the hammam while still feeling right at home in Dubai.
If you grew up with this ritual, you will appreciate how close it gets to the real thing. If you did not, consider this your introduction to one of North Africa’s most enduring beauty traditions. Either way, your skin will thank you.
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