Born amidst the pandemic’s creative boom, KHOL emerged as an antidote to the fashion industry’s surface-level obsessions. Conceived as a response to a market where brands prioritize “concepts” over true craftsmanship, with an audacious vision rooted in ritual and razor-sharp tailoring, the Moroccan label wants to celebrate authentic beauty, skill, and design through each and every stitch.
“Valentin (Nicot) and I met during a tailoring program,” co-founder Hamza Glamouss recounted. “What began as a shared passion for craftsmanship turned into unstoppable synergy when our designs came alive on models,” he continued, expanding on his enterprise’s origins.
“Watching my mother apply kohl every morning was like witnessing a sacred ritual,” Glamouss revealed. “Kohl symbolizes a sense of protection—both for men and women in the region—and carries with it a sacred connection to beauty and mysticism. Its essence and connection to my roots is ultimately what inspired the creation of the brand,” he added, shedding light on how important this specific tradition is for him and his label.
“When you apply it, there’s a unique experience—the way it changes the look of the eyes, the sharp yet graceful motion of the application. It’s a precise and graphic gesture, yet light and delicate, ensuring no harm to the eyes. Kohl’s deep black hue is egalitarian, transcending gender, as it has been worn by both men and women alike throughout history,” he explained, building on the significance of kohl and where the brand’s roots originate from.
“In Morocco, clothes tell stories; they’re alive,” the 30-year-old reflected. “KHOL blends sacred and contemporary, with cultural references subtly embedded like hidden verses in poetry,” he mused.
“We love celebrating multifaceted women—those with layers of complexity who remain true to themselves. Identity is at the core of our brand, providing a foundation to explore paradoxes and contradictions that bring nuance and intrigue to our designs. Rooted in both cultural heritage and contemporary influences, our work embraces sensuality as a constant thread, ensuring it shines through in every piece,” both Nicot and Glamouss told MILLE.
With a process steeped in contrast, “a fundamental element of KOHL’s DNA,” the brand is said to thrive on juxtaposition and opposing differences. Consider the striking interplay of materials: repurposed rubber pleated into sculptural forms that nod to Madame Grès’ work, transformed (again) into corsets paired with rib-knit tanks. Think evening-wear that flirts with athleisure, yet neither succumb to their respective mold. Another standout marries the austerity of a men’s tuxedo shirt with perforated rubber lace, a daring subversion of the fabric’s original feminine side.
Both designers’ respect for traditional menswear tailoring borders on the reverential. “We apprenticed with master-tailors to perfect the craft,” they admitted, though they wield tradition as a tool, not a constraint. Their atelier pulses with energy, a sanctuary where 2 a.m. creativity thrives against the sounds of a violin mixed with Arab pop-beats playing in the background.
Nicot, a former painter, approaches tailoring with the finesse of a sculptor. “For me, fabric is like marble, alive, unpredictable,” he shared. Together, they craft pieces that speak to both the mind and body, garments that exist in a realm where art meets anatomy.
On the other hand, he explained how “Hamza ensures we stay true to the creative direction and overall purpose.” Meanwhile, Nicot focuses on honoring the craftsmanship and ensuring it meets the high standards the co-founders set from start to finish.
During our conversation, the duo explained working in a very complementary process. ”We work closely, always with the same purpose: to create something relevant to the woman we’re designing for, in the most refined, creative, and subtle way. It begins with an idea or a sketch, and then we spend hours draping and experimenting,” they both divulged.
According to them, KHOL refuses to bow to fashion’s cyclical obsessions. “We founded KHOL as a rebellion against the industry’s addiction to fleeting trends,” the duo asserted, revealing how their designs are built to last, yet, they hum with an avant-garde electricity that feels utterly of the moment.
“Our goal is to bring identity to the table, but in a nuanced and thoughtful way. We come from different backgrounds, with distinct identities, yet we share a common vision. We’re inspired by women in the Middle East, like Shirin Neshat, who have redefined perspectives on identity. But we’re also drawn to strong female identities from different parts of the world, as they all share the same essence. The core identity remains the same, regardless of body, culture, or environment,” they said.
Dream collaborations? Michèle Lamy. “She is one of the few women in fashion who remains utterly dedicated to her vision and uncompromising in her approach,” the duo shared. Another one is Amal Ayouch, a paragon of Moroccan elegance, whose aesthetic embodies the essence of KHOL.
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If KHOL is to leave its mark, it won’t be through mere aesthetics but through a visceral feeling, subtle yet seismic. “We’d prefer KHOL to leave a feeling rather than a simple impression—a feeling of deep power, conveyed in a subtle, poetic, yet tough manner,” they said. Looking forward, they envision an expansion into menswear and leather goods, but as always, with an unshakeable commitment to craftsmanship.
