Monaco might conjure visions of supercars, yachts, and diamanté bikinis. All very shiny. All very loud. But that’s not really my scene. I like it better when it feels old-school. A bit of quiet glamour. And the people there… The people are the real show in Monaco.
Imagine the old Comtessa draped in diamonds the size of ice cubes, tiny dog in tow, trading gossip with boutique managers who greet her like an old friend. She’s basically a living, breathing Jennifer Coolidge. Absolutely fabulous.
But the scene is shifting. The old guard is still here, however now they’re sharing space with Gen Z’s younger crowds chasing the same five-star service, shopping, and spa days, but throwing wild parties after dark. And honestly? I’m here for the chaos of it all.
So if you’re ready to skip the clichés and do Monaco properly, here’s how.
The Story of SBM: The Real Monaco VIP
Monaco wouldn’t be Monaco without the Société des Bains de Mer (SBM). Founded in 1863 by Charles III of Monaco and François Blanc, SBM turned a rocky sliver of the Riviera into Europe’s most glamorous playground.
Monte-Carlo SBM is Europe’s first luxury resort. Primarily owned by the Monegasque royal family with a small stake from LVMH, it runs the Principality’s most prestigious addresses and events. Beyond the four legendary hotels, SBM hosts everything from the Formula 1 Grand Prix and Rolex Masters to the Bal de la Rose and the Red Cross Gala.
It also holds the monopoly on Monaco’s casinos, and owns the Opera House designed by Garnier and Eiffel. Not to mention 33 restaurants, four of which hold a combined seven Michelin stars—like Le Louis XV-Alain Ducasse and Le Grill.
Today, SBM owns and operates the crown jewels of Monte Carlo—each with its own distinct personality. There’s the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, the original glitzy icon and the very first hotel built in the Principauté, now gleaming after a multi-year renovation. Pop into the Bar Américain, order a barbagiuan (a flaky pastry stuffed with Swiss chard and ricotta), and thank me later.
Then there’s the Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo, a Belle Époque beauty topped with a glass dome designed by Gustave Eiffel, perfect for those who prefer discretion over spectacle. Meanwhile, the Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel brings a dose of 1930s Riviera chic, set among pine groves with iconic tennis courts and brand-new paddle courts. And for something a little more modern (and family-friendly), the Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort offers laid-back luxury and a turquoise lagoon that feels like an escape within an escape.
Beyond the hotels, there’s no shortage of buzzy restaurants, luxe spas, beach clubs, and nightlife staples—like Jimmy’z Monte-Carlo, where generations have danced straight through till sunrise.
Stay: Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel
For those looking to swap city clamor for pine-scented air and a sea breeze, the Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel offers a quieter kind of luxury. Nestled between pine groves and the Mediterranean, its low-slung architecture and perfectly framed corners give it the feel of a private coastal retreat, complete with an eight-year waitlist for one of the coveted cabanas reserved exclusively for its 40 rooms and suites.
Right now, the main attraction is Jacquemus Beach—an exclusive stretch of pool and beachfront lined with striped sunbeds and chic details, plus two pop-up boutiques. It’s Riviera fashion fantasy territory and a magnet for style seekers worldwide.
This is where the real Monegasques and seasoned regulars gather, far from the glitter of Hôtel de Paris or the hush of the Hermitage. If you want Monaco minus the circus, this is your spot.
Catch of the Weekend: Le Dressing Vintage Store
View this post on Instagram
Don’t leave without making time for Le Dressing, easily my best shopping discovery of the year. Tucked just outside Monaco in Beausoleil, the lowkey gem is a treasure trove of barely-worn designer pieces, all offloaded by locals for whom outfit repeating is simply not an option…Lucky for us.
Inside, it’s a fashion lover’s dream: Chanel jackets, Dior skirts, off-the-runway Saint Laurent, and rare accessories, all at prices that’ll make you question why you ever shop retail. Perfect for scoring something unique for your next Riviera dinner.
Do It for the Drama: Casino de Monte-Carlo
Even if you never place a single bet, go for the spectacle. Velvet walls, chandeliers, the hush when the roulette ball spins, and the collective gasp when fortune tilts one way or the other. It’s Monaco’s ultimate theater. And the people-watching? Chef’s kiss.
Where to Eat (and Be Seen)
Monaco isn’t only about Michelin stars and crystal chandeliers (though there’s plenty of that). Here’s my go-to mix of high-end and casual—all places where old money and new money comfortably rub elbows:
Em Sherif Monte-Carlo (Hôtel de Paris)
Lebanese fine dining, a stellar music playlist, and mezze worth lingering over. Come hungry.
Jondal Monte-Carlo Beach
Straight from Ibiza’s cult scene. Balearic cool, pristine seafood, and barefoot luxury. Enough said.
Pavyllon Monte-Carlo (Hôtel Hermitage)
Yannick Alléno’s modern brasserie, holding one Michelin star. Perfect for a sunlit lunch that stretches into the afternoon.
Amazonico Monte-Carlo
Jungle-party vibes, Latin American plates, and a soundtrack flipping from bossa nova to DJ sets.
Maona Monte-Carlo
Retro Riviera glamour with laid-back fun. Ideal for a cold cocktail at sundown.
Le Deck (Monte-Carlo Beach)
The ultimate Riviera lunch spot. Light dishes, bright sea views, and your perfect mid-swim reset.
The right Monaco reveals itself quietly; somewhere past the yachts and diamonds, in sun-drenched corners filled with low-key decadence and offbeat regulars. Because in Monaco, it’s never just about how much you spend, but about looking like you’ve been coming here forever.
