Fashion is very easy to dismiss as frivolous, particularly when celebrities start using their clothes to make political statements. A pin here,
a slogan T-shirt there, perhaps a carefully selected color on the red carpet, and inevitably someone will point out that none of it actually changes anything. Olivia Rodrigo’s latest outfit makes that argument a little harder to sustain.
Ahead of the inaugural Daisy Chain Fields festival in California last month, the 23-year-old singer appeared at a press conference wearing a pale pink minidress by Palestinian fashion label Nöl Collective. Made from raw silk and covered in traditional Palestinian tatreez embroidery depicting birds and interconnected daisies, the dress was beautiful on its own. The story of how it reached Rodrigo, however, makes it more interesting.
Nöl Collective is the Ramallah-based label founded by Palestinian-American designer Yasmeen Mjalli, who works with family-run workshops, women’s cooperatives, and individual craftspeople across Palestine. Traditional Palestinian techniques including tatreez, handweaving, and natural dyeing sit at the center of the brand, with production deliberately kept within communities whose craft traditions have increasingly become inseparable from questions of cultural preservation and economic survival. By the time Rodrigo’s team came calling, however, Mjalli was wondering whether she could keep the business going at all.
As she recently told Vogue Arabia, Nöl Collective had ordered naturally dyed, handwoven wool from India for its upcoming autumn collection. The shipment was held by Israeli customs for months before ultimately being destroyed. Mjalli attempted to source replacement fabric in Jerusalem, but road closures prevented her from leaving Ramallah. Exhausted by the constant logistical obstacles involved in producing clothing under occupation, she had begun seriously considering closing the label. Then came Rodrigo’s commission.
With less than a week to make the dress, Mjalli managed to find one suitable textile locally: petal-pink raw silk. The fabric had to travel between craftspeople in the West Bank, passing through nine pairs of hands as the garment was cut, sewn, and embroidered. A journey from Ramallah to Bethlehem that would ordinarily take around 90 minutes took three hours because of checkpoints.
Getting the finished dress out of Palestine presented another problem. No courier could get it to California quickly enough, so two strangers volunteered space in their luggage and carried it to Los Angeles themselves. Somehow, against all the logistical odds involved in making and exporting a garment from the occupied West Bank, it arrived in time. The result was a deceptively simple pink minidress carrying considerably more weight than its appearance suggested.
There was something particularly fitting about Rodrigo wearing it while announcing Daisy Chain Fields’ $10 million commitment to organizations supporting women and girls. The festival, which brought together artists including Chappell Roan, Doechii, Mitski, Bikini Kill, and Stevie Nicks, directed its net proceeds toward organizations working across reproductive rights, maternal health, domestic violence, and mental health. Melinda French Gates later matched the initial $10 million contribution, bringing the total to $20 million.
But Rodrigo’s dress offered another, much smaller example of how money can move through communities and why the choices made by extremely famous people can matter beyond optics. According to Mjalli, many of the Palestinian families Nöl works with have become increasingly dependent on income from the collective following restrictions on work permits after Oct. 7, 2023. A celebrity commission therefore means more than exposure or an Instagram tag. It means paid work moving through a network of embroiderers, seamstresses, workshops, and families at a time when opportunities to earn a living have become increasingly difficult to access.
Celebrity solidarity with Palestine has spent much of the past few years being measured through statements, social media posts, red carpet pins, and signatures on open letters. Those gestures can have value, particularly when they help keep an issue visible to millions of people. But visibility has obvious limits. Buying Palestinian work, commissioning Palestinian artists, employing Palestinian creatives, and directing money toward Palestinian businesses creates something much more tangible.
Rodrigo’s commission is also a reminder that fashion has never existed outside politics, however much the industry occasionally likes pretending otherwise. Clothes are made somewhere, by someone, under particular economic and political conditions. In Palestine, where restrictions on movement can turn a 90-minute journey into three hours and where something as basic as importing fabric can determine whether a business survives, the process of making a dress becomes political long before a celebrity puts it on.
For Mjalli, the good 4 u singer’s request arrived at such a precarious moment that she described it as “divine intervention.” What could easily have registered as another celebrity fashion credit instead became work for a group of Palestinian artisans and a reason for Nöl Collective to keep going.