The pandemic might have put fashion’s future at stake, but this fashion month proved the industry’s will to prosper, even at the most uncertain of times.
From Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s collaborative debut to Matthew Williams’s highly anticipated collection as Givenchy’s newest creative director, we had a lot to look forward to. And disappointment was not on the agenda.
As it turned out, COVID-19 related safety measures put fashion houses to the test; and things got creative, making this fashion month one for the books. Whether it’s Dior’s TikTok debut or Marni’s experimental global livestream, we round up the best to come from this year’s most momentous fashion month.
With coronavirus still wreaking havoc, fashion has gone digital for 2020. Fashion houses have turned to livestreams and video presentations to showcase their collections. Here are the best of fashion videos aired during fashion month.
The very last to show on PFW’s calendar, Maison Margiela offered us a one of a kind 40-minute long fashion documentary detailing the genius of John Galliano’s creative process and the incredible work of the team within the French luxury fashion house. From design sessions and rehearsals to the manufacturing processes, be ready to witness an in-depth analysis of the making of this Nick Knight-directed South American wedding fantasy.
View this post on Instagram
Maison Margiela presents Co-Ed Spring-Summer 2021 Collection by @JGalliano In collaboration with @SHOWstudio In the second and final installment of S.W.A.L.K. – the filmic project first launched for haute couture, creative director John Galliano demonstrates how techniques developed in the Artisanal collection are artistically industrialized for the Spring-Summer 2021 Co-Ed Collection. Through the sense of community, family values and generational exchange central to the culture of tango, the film – brought to life by image-maker Nick Knight – illuminates the ecosystem of Maison Margiela. Creative Director: John Galliano Based on an original idea by John Galliano Directed by Nick Knight for SHOWstudio Orchestration & The Sound of Couture specially created and composed by Jeremy Healy and Tom Linden Fashion and Millinery Maison Margiela Co-ed Collection SS21 Model: Anton Engbrox @ Marilyn Model: Jean Lemesre @ Bananas Paris Model: Kyona Van Santen @ Titanium Model: Lamich Kirabo @ Select, Paris Model: Leon Dame @ TIAD Model: Maartje Convens @ Hakim model agency Model: Madelyn Whitley @ The Face Model: Malick Bodian @ TIAD Model: Margo Whitley @ The Face Model: Niki Geux @ Premium Model: Theodoor Kooijman Artistic Image director: Alexis Roche Styling: Olivier Rizzo Casting: Jess Hallett @ Streeters Makeup Designed by: Pat McGrath for PAT McGRATH LABS Hair Stylist: Eugene Souleiman @ Streeters Manicurist: Jennie Nippard, Amy Oldale Set Designer: Andy Tomlinson @ Streeters Movement Director: Pat Boguslawski @ Streeters Tango Instructor: Nathalie Clouet Filmed by: Nick Knight & Myles Henrik Hall Edited by: Raquel Couceiro & Myles Henrik Hall Content Editor: Calum Knight Sound Design & Musical Arrangement: Jeremy Healy @ Dexnfx Music Producer: Tom Linden @ Narrative Mind / Anger Music Sound Editor: Cheekypaul Voice Over: Nicolás Cifuentes Writer: Kier-La Janisse Production @liberteproductions
If you won’t stage a runway show, why not make a music video? That’s what Demna Gvasalia thought up as he prepared to present his Spring/Summer 2021 to the world. Through the dimly-lit streets of Paris, models showcased a collection of comfy-luxury looks while singing along to a cover of Corey Hart’s “Sunglasses at Night”. With huge tailored coats, giant shirts and a red bathrobe coat, Gvasalia stayed true to his ‘comfort is key’ ethos but with a touch of Paris glamour.
Best Unconventional Presentation
Between lockdowns and travel restrictions, physical fashion shows proved complicated to stage. But if there’s one thing we’ve learned from this year’s fashion month, it’s that the pandemic can’t stand in the way of the creativity and genius of fashion’s biggest designers, as they find incredible out-of-the box mediums to present their collections.
“This isn’t a puppet show, this is a fashion show!” said a puppet version of Jeremy Scott. The Italian fashion house presented us with an exquisite puppet runway show with marionette-size models and front row guests. The idea was inspired by the Theatre de la Mode’s exhibit of fashion miniature dolls that toured Europe and the United States at the end of World War II to help the French fashion industry recover. In fact, the entire collection was a nod to the importance of haute couture in today’s post lockdown dressing climate.
After his Show-in-a-Box Resort 2021 and SS21 collections for his namesake brand, Jonathan Anderson introduces us to his Show-on-the-Wall presentation for Loewe Spring/Summer 2021 collection. As he explains in the film, the designer teamed up with British artist Anthea Hamilton to create a set of art-printed wallpaper and life-sized posters of Anderson’s “structured fluidity” silhouettes and hand embroidered voluminous dresses.
Best Statement Pieces
Here are the looks that created the biggest buzz at this year’s fashion month.
Chanel, Balmain, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Miu Miu
Yasmin Le Bon, Penelope Tree, Imaan Hammam, Aliet Sarah, Paloma Elsesser
For her last collection before Kim Jones’s take over as Fendi’s new womenswear creative director, Silvia Venturini Fendi took us on a nostalgic trip celebrating the Italian house’s rich heritage. A story she chose to re-tell through a diverse cast featuring iconic models like Yasmin Le Bon and Penelope Tree.
For their Spring/Summer 2021 collection, Halpern chose to cast female essential workers as a tribute to the heroines of the front line who are risking their lives during the pandemic. A great gesture from the London-based brand.
View this post on Instagram
This season is about joy and optimism, so we made an incredible film celebrating the heroines of the front line to showcase the Halpern Spring-Summer ’21 collection. It was a great honour for me to get to meet these incredible people who have kept us moving throughout the past six months. I will be forever grateful for this experience. Stylist: @Patti_Wilson Art Direction & Set Design: @Shona.Heath Hair: @SamMcknight1 Nails: @MarianNewman Director and Producer: @Therealminniecarver Photographer: @Thechrissutton Interview: @Kin_woo Director of Photography: @arthur_loveday Makeup Artist: @terrybarberonbeauty for @maccosmetics Shoes: @LouboutinWorld for Halpern Jewellery: @IradjMoini Gaffer: Pearce Crowley 2nd Camera Operator: Charlie Knight 2nd Camera Operator: Jomar O’Malley Sound Recordist: Duncan Ettie Production Manager: Alice Gilfillan Edit: Nielson Bohl @PavillionWorks Grade: Myles Bevan @TimeBasedArts Sound Mix: Sean Dodd An enormous and heart felt thank you to everyone involved in this project including my incredible team, creative collaborators, family and friends!
Daniel Rosberry continues to wow us season after season with his master skills of creating the most unique of accessories. From a fabulous face sculpted golden mask, finger-shaped bijoux and golden eyes and nose adorned bags, these pieces are to die for.
Everyone had their eyes on Matthew Williams as he presented his debut collection for Givenchy. And as the American designer previously expressed his passion for hardware, this collection portrayed his affinity perfectly. Take a look at some of these star accessories, from padlocks adorned alligator bags to iconic horn hats.
Best Set Design
For the last day of Paris Fashion Week, Louis Vuitton took us on an exclusive glimpse inside the historic Samaritaine building, one of the largest Parisian department stores which has been under renovations for 15 years. The LVMH-owned building was transformed with giant green screens lining the walls that displayed footage from Wim Wenders’s film ‘Wings of Desire’.
View this post on Instagram
#LouisVuitton presented @NicolasGhesquiere’s latest Women’s Collection at Samaritaine in Paris. See more from the Fashion Show at louisvuitton.com Featuring scenes from “Wings of Desire" directed by Wim Wenders Music composed by @tepr_ Musical direction by @woodkidmusic