With Schiaparelli’s Fall 2025 ready-to-wear collection, Daniel Roseberry is studying women. What makes them feel powerful? What makes them feel seen? And, most importantly, what makes them feel like themselves? The answer, as it turns out, is a wardrobe that leans into the contradictions that define modern femininity: tough yet delicate, structured yet fluid, fiercely independent yet connected to a greater history.
There’s no need for male validation here. The collection, titled “Lone Star” is a love letter to women who dress for themselves and each other. Roseberry draws on his Texas upbringing (Texas is nicknamed the Lone Star State), fusing the rugged masculinity of cowboy culture with the unapologetic opulence of Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy. Think duster coats reimagined in couture proportions, cowboy boots given an almost sculptural finesse, and leather embossed to mimic the delicate craftsmanship of fine jewelry.
Indeed, the real magic of this collection lies in its playful subversions. A skirt that looks like stiff jacquard? It’s actually light-as-air cut-thread fabric. A bodysuit that appears restrictive? It moves like a second skin. The Soufflé bag, normally soft and supple, now gleams with hundreds of gold studs, transforming into something almost armor-like. Trompe-l’oeil trickery runs rampant, with flocked feather motifs and exaggerated proportions adding to the sense of surrealism that Schiaparelli has long been known for.
And just when you think you’ve seen the best look of the show, another one emerges to top it. A model glides in wearing a molten gold strapless gown, encrusted in shimmering embellishments that catch the light like a constellation. The next moment, another sweeps in clad in rich, embossed leather—a structured, double-breasted suit with a dramatic fur collar, cinched at the waist with an oversized gold buckle. Then, an architectural satin gown in deep bronze—a masterclass in draping—wraps the body in structured pleats, as if the fabric itself is sculpting movement mid-stride. And in an unexpected moment of casual audacity, a simple white tank is transformed into an emblem of attitude, paired with slouchy black leather trousers and a cluster of stacked cowboy belts.
At a time when social media has reduced fashion to fleeting images and fast consumption, the Schiaparelli Fall 2025 collection reminds us of the beauty of the tangible. Roseberry speaks of “things and people that can’t be replicated,” a quiet dig at the culture of duplication that plagues the industry. These are clothes that demand to be touched, felt, experienced in real life. The irony, of course, is that they’ll still flood our Instagram feeds. But, at least for those who get their hands on them, the sensation will be real.
It’s easy to draw comparisons between this collection and the work of Schiaparelli herself. She was never interested in clothing as mere decoration—she wanted fashion to spark conversation, to provoke. Roseberry continues in that tradition but with a 21st-century lens. The exaggerated cowboy belt buckles, etched with keyholes and lobsters, nod to the Maison’s surrealist past, while the chandelier earrings shaped like eyes and noses feel like modern relics, heirlooms waiting for a future generation to discover.
Ultimately, the collection is about women who know their worth, who don’t ask for permission, who embrace both the hardness and softness within them. Roseberry isn’t trying to dictate how they should dress. Instead, he’s offering them tools—pieces they can mold into their own language of self-expression. Because, as he puts it, the women he designs for are singular, irreplaceable, one of one. In other words, lone stars.
