Scrunchies and Extreme Low Cut, But Make It Diesel

All hail Glenn Martens

Diesel has always been a brand that thrives on chaos—the good kind. The kind that makes you stop, tilt your head, and think, What exactly am I looking at? before realizing you’re kind of obsessed with it. And this season? That chaos unfolded in the middle of an actual world record—a graffiti-covered venue created by 7,000 artists, wrapping around the show like a living, breathing piece of rebellion. But the real contrast wasn’t just in the setting. It was on the runway itself.

At first glance, this collection felt unexpectedly refined. Bouclé jackets, houndstooth patterns, jacquard, tulle—Diesel was speaking the language of classic tailoring, the kind of pieces you’d expect from a heritage house, not a brand known for its raw, industrial edge. But Diesel is never that simple. Look closer, and you see the distortion: distressed denim cut to pieces and reassembled into a dress, houndstooth jacquards woven in a way that made them look like they were breaking apart, bouclé coats purposely mistreated until they started to pill. It was as if creative director Glenn Martens was asking: How far can we push refinement before it unravels?

 

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I’ve been to many Diesel shows before, and I’ve watched the brand shape-shift, not just in design but in the way it chooses to present itself. In past seasons, Diesel flung open the doors, inviting the public in—hundreds of wide-eyed fashion kids, fans, and curious outsiders getting a seat to the spectacle. It was radical, and it made a statement: fashion should belong to everyone. But this time? The doors stayed shut. The audience was tight, carefully curated, yet still expansive in reach. K-pop idols, Italian celebrities, an international mix of high-profile guests—it was clear that Diesel still wanted to make impact. The energy was still electric, still chaotic in the best way, proving that whether the doors are open or closed, the brand knows how to dominate the conversation.

And then, the music hit, classical melodies that felt almost delicate, layered over a bass so deep you could feel it in your ribs. The models stormed down the runway with an eerie, unsettling beauty: white-out eyes, colored teeth, spray-painted smiles that looked like they were left behind by a graffiti artist in a hurry. Creepy? Definitely. But very cool.

 

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Then came the shift. The silhouettes got wilder, the designs more daring. Extreme low-cuts started appearing, the kind that practically guarantee a viral fashion moment in the coming weeks. Those pants held together by stretch panels? Someone, somewhere, is already planning their thirst-trap debut in them. But Martens wasn’t done. He hit us with a true wow moment: a life-sized image of a shirt printed onto a chest-sized plaster piece and slapped onto the body like a collage, as if glued on at the last minute. It made total sense in the world of Diesel.

I always keep an eye on the details, and Diesel knows how to play that game. Models had bedazzled scrunchies stacked on their wrists—big and chunky, let’s be honest, are probably going to be everywhere in a few months. And then, the bags. Diesel’s Double D bag is already an icon, but this season, all eyes are on the Flag-D slouchy bag with its faux pony texture and wide logo strap. It felt very 90’s somehow.

And let’s talk about the shoes. Again, that push and pull—elegance fighting with destruction. Formal slippers and kitten heels, but warped, distorted, reinvented through the Diesel lens. They were sleek, but not too sleek; wearable, but just weird enough to feel fresh.

This wasn’t just a collection—it was a conversation between polish and chaos, between tradition and rebellion. Martens knows how to walk that tightrope better than anyone, and this season, he proved it again.

@milleworlddotcom come with us to the diesel fall 2025 show! #diesel #dieselfall2025 #milanfashionweek #milan #mfw #marwanpablo #fashion #fyp ♬ Fashion Show Minimal Lounge House – ActualVibe

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