London Fashion week brought its classic blend of tradition and innovation to the Fall 2025 women’s ready-to-wear season. This year, we were fortunate enough to attend a number of the shows. From artistic presentations to rebellious regenerations, here’s MILLE’s roundup of the collections that had us talking this season .
Harris Reed Opens Fashion Week With The ‘Gilded’ Collection
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The British-American designer, Harris Reed delivered a dramatic opening to London Fashion Week with his “Gilded” collection, featuring the Don’t Worry Darling film star Florence Pugh, who launched the showcase by walking down the runway in a sculptural ensemble that was reflective of the delicate balance of avant-garde and gender-fluidity that Reed, also the creative director of Nina Ricci, is known for.
The collection played up the clash between tough and tender on the runway. Models wore structured pieces that looked almost like armor, but Reed mixed in see-through fabrics and strategic cut-outs that showed some skin underneath. It created this combination where strong, exaggerated shapes were paired with floaty, delicate materials.
When Pugh kicked things off telling everyone to ‘be fearless’ but still be themselves, it summed up what Reed was going for— finding the sweet spot between looking strong and displaying your softer side. Even the makeup followed this idea: Those dramatic spider lashes made a bold statement, while the glowy skin underneath kept things fresh and vulnerable.
The show captured the tension between being tough but being vulnerable at the same time. This idea was so well-understood by the fashion press that it inspired boringdotcom to make themself vulnerable to commercial rejection, rating the show a tough 3/10.
Paul Costelloe Looks Back to His Equestrian Roots
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Having shown at London Fashion Week since its beginnings in the 1980s, Paul Costelloe’s Fall 2025 show marked 40 years of showcasing in this setting. The designer’s career has even included a period of time working as the personal designer for the late Princess of Wales, Diana, in 1983. Approaching 79, the Irish-American designer, was keen to emphasize across interviews that fashion is not something that can be defined by age. The timelessness of his brand was evident within his collection and through the invitees of his show, who were of a broad spectrum of ages and careers. From the recent returnees of the TV show, Love Island: All Stars to British Muslim modesty influencers, Costelloe presented a show that had a universality to it.
Within the collection, the designer reflected back on his Irish-American roots with an equestrian-style line that combined more traditional materials and silhouettes with modern flair. After showcasing tartan trench coats (what else do people want to see at London Fashion Week?) Costelloe displayed his more experimental side by presenting two piece suits fit for womenswear that had fun screen prints on them.
Whether you liked the tartan trench coats or not, there was something very personal about Costelloe’s craft, which maintained a clear equestrian theme, showcasing show jumpers and dressage motifs. The commitment and dedication to his personal craft was abundantly evident from his energy, as he made a smiling appearance to receive a warm round of applause.
Noon By Noor Fall 2025 Was a Bold Tribute to Bahraini Heritage
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Bahraini fashion house Noon By Noor, led by Shaikha Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Mohamed Al Khalifa, delivered a masterclass in effortless elegance at London Fashion Week. Their Fall 2025 collection, shown in an intimate salon-style presentation at Somerset House, blended Bahraini heritage with a fresh, modern edge.
Taking cues from Swiss architect Christian Kerez’s multi-story car parks in Muharraq, Bahrain—which double as public spaces for art and culture—the collection played with contrasts: sharp tailoring vs. soft draping, structure vs. fluidity, tradition vs. modernity. The result? Sculptural jackets, draped bodices, and sliced silhouettes that flashed just the right amount of skin, keeping things refined yet undeniably bold.
The color palette—noir, caramel, earth shadow, citrine, dust, and ice—set the tone for a lineup of luxe textures, from double crepe and wool tweeds to silks and bonded wool. Instead of flashy embellishments, the designers let the fabrics do the talking, using frayed and reworked tweeds on tulle to create subtle but striking details.
With a soundtrack by Uwe Doll, Noon By Noor delivered a collection that felt polished but personal, bold yet familiar. A reminder that Bahraini design isn’t just about tradition—it’s about pushing things forward while staying true to its roots.
MITHRIDATE has a rebellious regeneration for Daniel Fletcher’s debut collection
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Daniel Fletcher’s MITHRIDATE debut found the perfect architectural counterpoint in the stark brutalist framework of Kemble Street. As models navigated the raw concrete expanses, the collection’s juxtaposition of refined elegance against rebellious attitude came into sharp focus. Britpop anthems from Republica blared throughout the space, their guitar-driven energy reverberating against the building’s unforgiving angles and creating a sonic backdrop that underscored Fletcher’s distinctive vision.
While drawing from Britpop’s irreverent spirit, Fletcher maintained a distinctly polished sensibility—the collection’s carefully tailored coats, jackets and sweaters acknowledged his background in luxury design.
At the same time, Fletcher maintained some more distinctive looking silhouettes, creating a collection that combined British wardrobe staples with MITHRIDATE’s original Chinese heritage, making the new collection well-suited for the wide fusion market that the brand was going for.
Abigail Ajobi Explores Cultural Identity with ‘I’M NOT ENGLISH, I’M BRITISH’
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Abigail Ajobi’s seventh collection, ‘I’M NOT ENGLISH, I’M BRITISH’ – JAPA SYNDROME, made a powerful statement at London Fashion Week, exploring the complex identity of first-generation British-Nigerians. The designer cleverly mixed cultural influences through her signature style, blending traditional British patterns like tartan and dogtooth with digital prints that created wavy patterns showing how cultures flow together.
The collection featured lots of denim— which Ajobi used as a symbol of immigrant resilience and hard work. Taking inspiration from the Yoruba concept of “Japa” (meaning “to break away”), she created a bold look that mixed 2000s London punk vibes with elements of Yoruba royalty, making designs that felt both rebellious and culturally meaningful.
Many pieces showcased the phrase “I’M NOT ENGLISH, I’M BRITISH”—directly addressing that feeling of being stuck between two worlds that many children of immigrants know all too well. This idea came through clearly in how she combined different materials and techniques.
Mythology Meets Modernity: Di Petsa’s Sensual Spectacle Features Ayra Starr and Mia Khalifa
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Di Petsa’s Fall 2025 showcase at London Fashion Week was little short of a journey, weaving storytelling with contemporary fashion. Her ‘Reflections of Desire’ collection moved the audience into a space where clothing became a canvas for emotional expression.
The designer’s intimate approach shone through the small details—garments inscribed with intimate messages and subtle imprints that spoke to human connection. Lingerie transcended its traditional role, emerging as sculptural statement pieces. Delicate lace wrapped unconventionally around models’ necks, marked by pearl accessories that blurred the lines of underwear and haute couture.
Each look was a chapter in an unfolding mythological Greek drama. Memorable moments included a warrior figure deathbed in silver, commanding attention with an ornate sword, and a bridal figure surrounded by minimally dressed attendants—each moment carefully choreographed to blur the lines between fashion and performance art.
The star power of Ayra Starr and Mia Khalifa added an additional layer of excitement, their presence amplifying the collection’s already magnetic energy and cementing the show as a standout moment of fashion week.
‘In Her Rage’: Emerging designer, Pinanki Shakes up LFW with Powerful Visual Showcase
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Virtual runways have emerged as a transformative force in London, allowing it to maintain the sense of digital innovation that the city prides itself on. Digital presentations also allow emerging designers to showcase their work globally, reducing production costs and environmental impact while reaching audiences far beyond traditional fashion capitals. These online platforms have become increasingly sophisticated, offering immersive experiences that challenge conventional runway formats.
London Fashion Week DiscoveryLAB featured a standout performance by emerging designer Pinanki, whose Fall 2025 collection “IN HER RAGE” captured media attention. Showcased through a powerful film screening, the collection reimagined South Asian women’s narratives through sustainable fashion, transforming upcycled Saris and surplus fabrics into provocative garments. Set against the gritty backdrop of a local boxing club, the presentation subverted traditional runway expectations, blending activist design with emotional storytelling. Pinanki’s signature techniques—including zero-waste construction and intricate jersey pleating—demonstrated a radical approach to fashion that prioritizes both artistic expression and environmental consciousness.
What sets Pinanki apart is her unapologetic rawness—a quality deeply resonant within Brown creative spaces. Her garments are more than clothing; they are manifests of intergenerational resilience, challenging the narratives regularly projected onto women of color. By juxtaposing delicate jersey pleats with the brutal honesty of a boxing ring, she confronts the performative softness expected of Brown women, instead celebrating their inherent strength and complexity.
BFC NEWGEN Showcase Spotlights Rising Stars
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The NEWGEN showcase at London Fashion Week once again solidified the city’s status as a breeding ground for cutting-edge design talent. The event showcased a remarkable group of designers pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion through innovative approaches and bold creativity.
Footwear designer Ancuta Sarca continued to make waves with her groundbreaking collections, blending athletic wear with unexpected luxurious touches that blur traditional design categories.
Johanna Parv took technical outerwear to new conceptual heights, transforming functional clothing into artistic statements that challenge our understanding of performance wear.
LUEDER made a statement with gender-neutral designs that deliberately subvert traditional clothing proportions, while Masha Popova reimagined denim through radical textile experimentation, creating entirely new fabric textures that seemed to defy conventional manufacturing techniques.
Paolo Carzana remained true to his sustainable design philosophy, presenting ethereal garments crafted from naturally-dyed fabrics that spoke to environmental consciousness.
Pauline Dujancourt’s knitwear was particularly noteworthy, featuring interactive designs that dramatically transformed when worn, turning clothing into a dynamic, living experience.
This group of designers epitomized London’s fearless and innovative approach to fashion, demonstrating why the city remains a global hub for creative and forward-thinking design that constantly reimagines the boundaries of clothing and personal expression.
