Fashion

How Local Designers Are Working Through War

BYKhaoula Ghanem

April 14, 2026

As conflict destabilizes parts of the Gulf, the effects are already being felt far beyond the headlines, filtering into studios, ateliers, and supply chains across the region. For local designers, the impact isn’t always immediate or visible, but it’s there in the form of delayed shipments, reworked timelines, rising costs, and the uncertainty that lingers behind every collection. And yet, amid the disruption, something else is taking shape—an industry being forced to slow down, reassess, and recalibrate in real time. From managing logistical setbacks and changing consumer habits to confronting the emotional weight of the moment, local designers are finding their own ways forward, offering a candid look at what it means to build, sustain, and imagine in the middle of it all. We caught up with four.

Sharifa Alhashemi, Onori

Despite ongoing regional tensions, Sharifa Alhashemi explains that ONORI has remained largely resilient from a business standpoint. “From a sales perspective, the impact has been minimal. In fact, we’ve seen an increase,” she notes, pointing to a clear shift in consumer behavior. With less travel across the region, “customers are spending more locally,” particularly online, which has worked in the brand’s favor. While there have been some operational challenges—“occasional delays in deliveries” and rising fuel costs impacting sourcing from Europe—she emphasizes that “these factors have not significantly affected the business overall. Demand has remained strong and, in some areas, has even grown.”

On a personal and creative level, however, the experience was initially far more disorienting. “At the beginning, it affected me deeply. I had to pause, I couldn’t think clearly or function in the way I normally do,” she says, describing a period marked by “a real sense of sadness and shock,” particularly seeing “a country I associate with peace, grace, and stability go through such a moment.” That pause eventually gave way to perspective. “It reminded me of who we are. The UAE is built on resilience, strength, and strong leadership,” she adds, explaining how that realization grounded her. Within weeks, she returned to work with renewed clarity—“more focused and more intentional”—ultimately finding that the experience “reset” her creatively. That shift is mirrored in consumer habits too: “there has been a stronger focus on shopping and local experiences,” alongside a move toward “pieces that feel effortless, versatile, and easy to wear,” signaling “a quieter approach to fashion, but a very intentional one.”

Aisha Abdulaziz, Sculp

From a business standpoint, Aisha Abdulaziz explains that the impact has been most visible behind the scenes. “On a practical level, the current situation has mainly impacted logistics and operational flow,” she says, noting that “shipping timelines for upcoming collections have become less predictable, costs have increased, and certain markets are more complex to serve in the short term.” As a brand operating across both online and offline channels, this has meant “more planning from our end, tighter coordination, and a more deliberate approach to inventory and distribution (especially internationally),” with the team ultimately having to “shift timelines for all our drops, sessions and pop-ups at the current moment.”

Beyond logistics, the shift has been just as palpable creatively. “Working in the region right now comes with a heightened sense of awareness,” she explains, adding that “there’s a need to be more intentional with what we put out, how we communicate, and the pace at which we move.” Rather than reacting quickly, the brand has leaned into “refining, reworking, and building with even more depth,” placing emphasis on “longevity” and “pieces that feel purposeful and lasting.” This mindset is mirrored in consumer behavior too, with customers becoming “more thoughtful with their purchases; more selective, more intentional,” while also showing “a deeper appreciation for local brands.”

Alyazya and Afra Humaid Alshamsi, Shams Fine Jewelry

Alyazya and Afra Humaid Alshamsi, the duo behind Shams, acknowledge that the current climate has brought its fair share of challenges, particularly when it comes to “shifts in demand” and “navigating uncertainty.” Still, they see it as a moment that calls for evolution rather than retreat. “Moments like these push us to grow, adapt and become more resilient in how we create and connect with our audience,” they explain.

What has stood out most, however, is the collective response from within the region. “What has been especially encouraging is seeing the community come together, supporting one another and championing local talent in a more meaningful way,” they say, pointing to a growing sense of solidarity.

Iman Coccellato, Coccellato

For Iman Coccellato, the current moment feels eerily familiar, yet even more fragile. “What is happening in the Middle East today inevitably reminds me of the COVID period,” he says, describing a time when “everything slows down, plans become unstable, and the illusion of control disappears.” While his initial concerns were practical (“deadlines, production, and whether everything would arrive on time”) that mindset quickly shifted. “Maybe this is precisely the moment when we need to slow down,” he reflects, pointing to an industry that has long been “obsessed with speed,” where “collections follow each other endlessly, and time rarely belongs to the creative process anymore.” For him, moments like these serve as a necessary reset, a reminder that “creation cannot exist without time… time to think, time to feel, time to build something meaningful.”

That perspective is deeply tied to the people behind the work. “What matters most to me in moments like these are the people around the work—the teams and the artisans,” he explains, emphasizing that “behind every garment there are hands, patience, and extraordinary knowledge passed down through generations.” Despite ongoing disruptions—like fabrics from Paris being unable to reach him due to shipping constraints—he remains grounded in gratitude. Loyal clients have also been a source of reassurance, reminding him that what he’s building is “not just a brand, but a relationship.” Ultimately, while “the challenges we face are very real and practical,” he views them as part of the process, noting that “constraints have always been part of creativity.” In the end, his outlook is clear: “creation is an act of resilience… even in the darkest moments, creation remains a way to move forward.”

How Local Designers Are Working Through War

Sharifa Alhashemi, Onori

Aisha Abdulaziz, Sculp

Alyazya and Afra Humaid Alshamsi, Shams Fine Jewelry

Iman Coccellato, Coccellato

Suggestions

Articles

Topics

How Local Designers Are Working Through War

Sharifa Alhashemi, Onori

Aisha Abdulaziz, Sculp

Alyazya and Afra Humaid Alshamsi, Shams Fine Jewelry

Iman Coccellato, Coccellato

Related Stories

More From Fashion

Suggestions

Articles

Topics

Newsletter

The only newsletter you won't unsubscribe from

Follow Us