The Loewe Spring 2025 RTW Collection Was a Masterclass in Craftsmanship

everyone say “thank you jonathan anderson”

Just when it seems Jonathan Anderson has reached the pinnacle of his creativity at Loewe, he surprises us yet again, surpassing his own brilliance. At this stage, his only true competition is himself. On Friday, the British designer unveiled the Spanish house’s Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection at the Esplanade St. Louis, graced by an unexpected burst of sunshine during an otherwise rainy Paris Fashion Week. The front row was star-studded, with muses and A-listers like Taylor Russell, Ayo Edebiri, Josh O’Connor, Luca Guadagnino (Anderson was the costume designer for Guadagnino’s Challengers), and Emily Ratajkowski (with her son in tow), among others, in attendance.

This season, models glided through a minimalist white space, orbiting a solitary bronze bird sculpture perched atop a post by British artist Tracey Emin. Clad in impeccably tailored dresses, oversized reflective aviators, elongated two-tone Oxfords, slouchy suits, and logo Ballet Runner high-tops, they brought Loewe’s craftsmanship to life.

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You can tell Anderson is having the most fun out of everyone in fashion–references to classical composers and painters adorned T-shirts—crafted, almost unbelievably, from feathers—featuring images of Mozart, Chopin, Bach, Van Gogh’s sunflowers, and a Manet soldier boy. These shirts, paired with slim trousers, added a touch of everydayness to an otherwise ethereal collection. Yet, nothing was truly as it seemed. Every piece was meticulously constructed, with boning and wiring allowing shapes to expand and protrude in ways that defied gravity.

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Anderson’s brilliance this season lay not in excess, but in restraint. It was as if Anderson had stripped everything away to focus on pure form. In a starkly minimal space, the silhouettes commanded attention without shouting. Dresses with dramatic crinolines, leather coats with upturned hemlines, and the delicate mother-of-pearl trench made from real seashells (an insane masterpiece) floated effortlessly. The designer first played with this idea with Ariana Grande’s custom Loewe Met Gala look, which featured a corset made of mother of pearl.

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As the show drew to a close, the final look—a feathered white Johann Sebastian Bach T-shirt, reminiscent of rock-concert memorabilia—felt like a fitting tribute to Anderson’s decade-long reign at the Spanish leather house. With sheet music printed on the outer walls of the showspace, the collection’s message was clear: when you strip everything away, only melody and rhythm remain. After ten years of pushing boundaries, Anderson has found the perfect harmony between innovation and restraint, reminding us that sometimes, the most powerful statement is the one made in quiet simplicity.

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