An illustrious cast of models, that included Mia Goth (who opened the show), Ethel Cain, Zaya Wade, and Amelia Gray, emerged on a sequence of raised walkways at Miu Miu’s Fall 2023 ready-to-wear show at the Palais d’Iena on Tuesday looking a little frazzled. With the kind of unkempt club-tousled hair you would typically spot during your 5:00 a.m. jog on a young woman wearing a tight dress that constantly has to be pulled down and a pair of too-big hotel slippers, clutching stilettos on one hand and her iPhone on the other, as she waits for an Uber while attempting to hail any passing cab, which never comes, the difference is though, Miu Miu’s models are wearing neat cardigans, pencil skirts, and slingback kitten heels, all of which we’ve come to associate with elegance.
“The point with this collection was to look at fashion from a personal point of view. I am always interested in how people look at things, their consideration. Why people are attracted to certain ideas, why others repulse them,” said Miuccia Prada of her latest offering.
When you look past the playful and humorous presentation of the collection, you will realize that the individual pieces are scrumptious. Voluminous peacoats in shearling and wool, oversized blouson jackets, flower-embroidered dresses, and sweaters tucked into pulled up sheer tights. And for anyone who said that if last season’s instantly-viral mini skirt got any shorter it would be non-existant— some models came out wearing nothing but knickers with their blazers and neat cardigans. Think corporate core, but you forgot to put on pants. Meanwhile, a neoprene hoodie paired with black leggings, a long coat, and sneakers was giving running errands after a hot yoga class.
Imagine that Prada’s naughtier little sister was forced to get a big-girl job, and showed up on her first day to the office 20-minutes late (with a Starbucks cup in her hand, of course), disheveled, and most importantly, extremely stylish. The Italian designer never fails to tell an engaging story with each collection she churns out for both her brands.
“This collection explores the idea of looking – the concept that, through close study, garments can be transformed both in their design, and again in how they are worn. How fashion and fashion design can change perceptions, of things we think we know,” said Prada. “It’s an invitation to reconsider.”