“I find inspiration through the female Arab icons that shaped pop-culture, the coquetry of our mothers, and the sometimes cheeky allure of extravagant women,” Iman Coccellato told MILLE of his debut collection. Or it turns out, through the ever ethereal Tems, who wore a custom bedazzled Coccellato look for a special performance at Sole DXB this weekend.
The Nigerian hitmaker was headlining the second day of the annual street culture festival in Dubai, and was a vision in the process, with her sparkling figure-hugging jumpsuit. Tems is already a shining star, but she managed to shine even brighter thanks to the Sicilian-Tunisian designer, who infused his signature flair for drama and opulence into the custom piece. “I call this silhouette Midnight in Sidi Bou Said,” the designer told MILLE. “You know, the windows in Sidi Bou Said are all painted blue, and at night, that blue transforms into something deeper, more ethereal. Blue is a significant color in Tunisia, and for me, Tems represents hope—like a star in the night sky. This design is deeply tied to my Tunisian roots.”
The off-the-shoulder midnight blue, flared catsuit was made out of sustainable fabric sourced from a deadstock factory. It was embellished with thousands of hand-applied rhinestones and featured a central knot-tie at the bust, revealing a daring yet tasteful cutout. The design, with long sleeves cascading into matching bejeweled gloves, exuded timeless glamour while adding a contemporary edge. “I didn’t want to overwhelm the blue; it needed to speak for itself. We hand-placed over 2,000 rhinestones, meticulously mapping them to follow her curves and enhance the body’s natural form,” he explained. To capture her energy, Coccellato studied her performances and movements. “We were very strategic with the placement of the beads, following her curves and highlighting the body. I added two cuts on the legs and a V-cut in the back to make it flow on stage.”
But reaching her wasn’t easy. The designer contacted her assistant five times, and eventually, through a mutual friend, got through. “I sent three sketches, and her team loved the mood and energy. The timeline was tight, so I created one sample and finished the pattern in just two weeks,” he recalled.
The journey to this moment wasn’t without pressure. “We had one fitting, just hours before the concert,” Coccellato admits. “I was terrified—she had just worn an Alaïa dress, so the stakes were high.”
But when she put it on, everything clicked. “She carried herself with such queen-like energy—her posture, her confidence, everything about her was magnetic. At the end of the fitting, she turned to her assistant and simply said, ‘It’s beautiful.’ I can’t describe how happy I was in that moment,” the designer shares.
The Lagos-born. star has been killing it when it comes to her wardrobe choices in recent weeks, slowly establishing herself as a style icon in her own right, donning striking creations from the likes of Alaia, Robert Wun, Dilara Findikoglu, and Vivienne Westwood. With this custom Coccellato look, Tems proved once again why she’s becoming a force to watch—not just in music, but in fashion too. For the designer, dressing the star for her Sole DXB performance was practically a result of his manifestations. “Two-years-ago, I made a vision board, and right in the center, I placed Tems. For me, designing for her was a creative challenge—she’s one of the few artists who fully embraces her curves,” he shared.
“Tems’ music has been a constant for me. I still remember driving around with my best friend, listening to her first album on repeat. There’s a vulnerability in her voice that transforms into strength, and that’s what I love about her—she honors the power of being a woman.”
Main Image: Photographed by Joshua Miles
