It’s been nearly a week since Milan Fashion Week came to its sad end. Since then, Paris took up the torch, inviting the stylish crowd seen in the Italian fashion hub to the city of lights for the last leg of the fashion month circuit.
Before we close the chapter on Milan Fashion Week for good though, we wanted to take a step back and properly reflect on what we tangibly saw and felt in Milan, and share with you, dear readers, what some of our fashion week highlights were.
If there’s anything to be remembered from this spring 2023 ready-to-wear season, it definitely has to be the return of life. It’s as if designers and stylists alike both tacitly agreed to celebrate the end of the pandemic and for it to become this year’s overarching theme. From one label to the other, most designers made use of a rich and vivid palette of colors and elegant and chic cuts, although relaxed and laid back silhouettes weren’t forgotten. Because if it is indeed true that we’re finally able to enjoy our lives like we used to, artisans of the industry have also understood that consumers want to stray away from previous understandings of fashion to embrace one that is more in line with their current mood, more respectful of their bodies, and less constraining overall — and that was the essence of this MFW.
Through dazzling shows, striking presentations, and worth-the-detour re-sees, here’s our favorite moments from Milan Fashion Week.
Rene Caovilla
Situated on a roof top at the heart of Milan overlooking the city’s majestic skyline, Italian designer Rene Coavilla put his latest footwear collection on display for clients and press to discover. For this spring 2023 ready-to-wear season, the luxury accessories label put on a glittery presentation showcasing their latest shimmering works that clearly sought to bring the brand’s glamorous self back to the center of Milan’s stage after a two-year-long pandemic-induced hiatus. Blending traditional artisanry with modern beauty, everything from cocktail-glass heels, footwear encrusted with diamonds, and vibrant colors could be seen harnessed by the eponymous brand.
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Bottega Venetta
On Sept. 24, Bottega Veneta presented its spring 2023 ready-to-wear collection under the creative direction of Matthieu Blazy. For the fashion show’s runway, Blazy intentionally hired interdisciplinary architect, designer, and artist, Gaetano Pesce, to design 400 chairs, each unique in color and shape, with a sculptural resin floor that will soon be put up as an artwork of its own.
A wide range of style and technique could be seen in Bottega Veneta’s latest collection, blending classical art with modern takes on fashion in one location. A real bridge between the times, the line mixed refinement and functionality while adding an elevated touch to each look through carefully tailored accessories.
Bulgari
For the first time in two years, Bulgari returned to the label’s eponymous design-hotel located right in the middle of Milan’s city center to showcase its latest collection of luxe jewels. In between spritzy-cocktails and curious-looking appetizers, the Italian house presented its newest line, revisiting some of the brand’s most recognizable symbols, the snake, to give birth to a fresh range of flashy diamond-encrusted purses subtle gold- bracelets, and new iterations of the much-famed Serpentine handbag.
Ferragamo
It was under a grey sky and cold rain that Ferragamo had to unfortunately hold its much-awaited Fashion Week show last Saturday. The renowned Italian powerhouse, who rebranded last week from Salvatore Ferragamo to just Ferragamo, marked Maximilian Davis’ debut as creative director of the famed fashion house. At the helm of the label since March this year, Davis excelled in making old and new meet through his first line. If anyone is wondering what Ferragamo looks like under the British designer’s supervision: its signature red was reimagined to give the label’s archives a revitalized twist namely through knitwear, silk, leather, and more.
Etro
Marco de Vincenzo, who was appointed at Etro in May, had approximately one month to design the brand’s spring 2023 ready-to-wear collection in order to have it ready on time, which is nearly impossible to guess judging by the end result. Considering he had no time to dip into Etro’s archives, there was no paisley print or fringe in sight. Instead, the designer relied on his own intuition to churn out a refreshing lineup of shorts, tops, miniskirts, denim cargos, and bralettes in luxe jacquard. If we learned anything from Vincenzo’s Etro debut, it’s that the storied house is definitely headed in a fresh new direction, one geared towards a younger generation.
Brunello Cucinelli
Inspired by the idea of travel, or “the female explorer,” to be more precise, the Italian label’s new ready-to-wear collection reimagines the adventurer’s uniform using luxe, high-quality materials, lush embroideries, fluid tailoring, and sensual styling combinations. When it came to the color palette, variations of Brunello Cucinelli’s trademark beige permeated throughout the collections, alongside punctuating touches of black. Standout pieces included the hand-crocheted tunics and sweaters, slouchy silk pajamas embroidered with crystal florals, and knitted vests that took 33-hours to complete.
Genny
The art galleries and futuristic architecture found in the city of angels — such as Frank Gehry’s works — served as the inspiration for Sara Cavazza Facchini’s spring 2023 ready-to-wear collection for Genny. Featuring 56 looks, the main takeaway from the show was that sensual dressing is not going anywhere anytime soon if the cut-out minidresses, micro jumpsuits, high-slit gowns slashed at the hips were any indication. Sure, it might not be for everyone, but Genny’s new neon-infused line will certainly find favor with the 20-something party girls longing for a night out come spring break.
