Moroccan author Tahar Ben Jelloun once wrote that “if Casablanca were a book, it would be badly written, yet, it would be punctuated by a few sublime pages of surreal poetry.” And if you’ve ever been to the city, you know exactly what he means.
As the award-winning novelist explains, the kingdom’s economic hub resists any kind of gloss or polish, prioritizing familiarity over spectacle and lived-in knowledge over first impressions. Looking over the Atlantic Ocean, the coastal hub over three million people call home is indifferent to approval, satisfied almost only when it doesn’t feel the need to impress or perform. But Casablanca can still feel abrasive, almost opaque, but give it time, and the city will gradually start to soften, becoming warm when least expected.
Inhabited by Amazigh communities as early as the seventh century BC, before serving as a port for the Phoenicians and later the Romans, the city that would later come to be known as Anfa gradually absorbed layers of passage and power. It was within its walls that successive dynasties rose and fell— from the Almoravids to the Merinids— followed by Spanish and Portuguese occupations, and eventually French colonial rule, hosting multiple communities along the way— Muslims, Jews, and Christians— whose coexistence would eventually end up defining the city’s identity.
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As one of the country’s beating hearts—entangled by veins and arteries that come in the form of tarred streets and grand boulevards —Casablanca’s sprawl can be difficult to navigate, especially without a compass or a local friend. It is for that reason that we turned to all-round creative Zineb Koutten, born and raised in the city that never sleeps, to share her favorite spots to eat, sleep, and visit.
Keep scrolling for the 24-year-old’s must visit spots in Casablanca.
Al Jazzirs Restaurant
“They have really good seafood here and the place feels homey. Right next door, there’s an old café where men sit around to play cards. I always go there after I eat.”
Cafe Imperial
“The spot is in Habous, the old Jewish Quarter of town. It’s especially nice in the afternoon, after 3 p.m., as the sun shines in that direction. You can sit there, enjoy some tea and then head to the nearby local sweets bakery, which is also very well known.”
Ain Diab
“I usually work out in Ain Diab, which is the famous seaside stretch where people run along the coast. It’s really nice, especially on weekends when people are out walking, running and training. It’s genuinely motivating to see that energy.”
California
“Not far from where I live, with a large green lawn where people go running or walking along the trails, you can eat some of the best seafood here. It’s freshly caught from the sea and put almost instantly on your plate.“
Souk Afghanistan
“This is where I usually go thrifting, although it’s been a while since I was there last. Whenever I go, I always find great pieces, and everything is really affordable. It’s named after the street it’s on, Boulevard Afghanistan, and all along, you’ll find people selling things on the ground, on makeshift stands, basically wherever they can.”
American Arts Center
“For culture, I always go to the American Arts Center. They host a lot of free workshops, organize concerts, and show genuine support towards Casablanca’s young creatives.”
L’uzine
“Not somewhere I go often as it’s a bit far from the city center but over the years, they’ve been among the first to really start organizing cultural events and initiatives for local youth.”
