Les Benjamins, the Istanbul-based luxury streetwear label brought to life under the creative vision of Bünyamin Aydin, also known as Benji, has become a namesake brand in the region. Renowned for its ability to thoughtfully narrate a story through every garment crafted, the label remains aware of social issues and cultural nuances, making each Les Benjamins collection an ode to storytelling as much as to fashion.
The label’s latest Spring/Summer 2024 collection delves into the essence of Turkey’s rich heritage, seamlessly blending comfort, futurism, heritage, and functionality. Entitled “Kismet Voyage East to West,” the collection pays homage to Sadun Boro, the first Turkish amateur sailor to circumnavigate the globe by sailing vessel. It draws inspiration from his voyage and his beloved sailing boat, Kismet-Fortune, channeling the celebrated mariner’s high performance, sailing ability, and drive. Reminiscent of Boro’s journey, this collection navigates the globe from East to West, offering a blend of avant-garde pieces with nautical-inspired details and tailoring, melding futuristic touches with subtle sentiments of nostalgia.
The first part of the new ready-to-wear offering takes inspiration from the sail itself, featuring lightweight nylon fabrics, degraded leathers, shades of denim, and recycled materials. Details such as ropes, hand-made macrame, and contemporary cuts echo the inspiration drawn from vintage oil posters and sailing recruitment adverts, adding a touch of playfulness.
Meanwhile, the second part pays homage to the legendary sail race’s awards ceremony, a nationwide celebration awaiting his arrival after he set sail, featuring silk, tailored fabrics, and structured shapes. Tailored suits and multi-layered silhouettes balance the collection, while a vibrant color palette celebrates the rich world of marine life and the ocean itself. Graphics inspired by Boro and his personal passion for tailoring and fashion adorn the designs, with nostalgic type fonts from the ’60s and impactful prints inspired by Morse code. Well-developed woven labels, metal branding elements, and Les Benjamins’ signature three-colored prints feature prominently throughout the S/S ‘24 collection.
Below, we caught up with the creative visionary behind the brand, who guided us through his creative process behind the latest collection.
Can you tell us more about the inspiration behind the Les Benjamins S/S 24 collection, “Kismet Voyage East to West”?
The collection draws inspiration from sailing, embodying a nautical theme. The colors and details of the collection represent a blend between traditional tailoring and the essence of sailing.
Sadun Boro’s mindset served as the key inspiration. His three-year journey around the world without digital tools is quite daring. I find this inspiring, and he also documented all the moments and people he encountered along the journey with his film camera. More than just a raw sailing story, I was inspired by the experiences that occur alongside the journey, which are usually never discussed.
Can you walk us through the creative process behind the collection?
I started by watching documentaries and reading his books. The artwork on the book covers was very inspiring, as were the photographs he took. The silhouette and the way we constructed the garments blend tailoring and street couture. I love Seoul, and spending two months there greatly inspired me, particularly in terms of engaging with Korean youth culture. I enjoy bringing together two unrelated elements. The silhouettes are inspired by Korean youth culture, while the key inspirations for my story and designs come from sailing and Sadun’s journey.
The collection blends comfort, futurism, heritage, and functionality. How did you balance these elements while designing the pieces?
It feels quite natural, as my designs are known to be blends of multiple elements. Sometimes it’s the fabric, sometimes it’s the way we construct the garment, and sometimes it’s the story embedded through trims or graphics. There are so many ways to tell a story.
The second part of the collection is described as an ode to the sail’s awards ceremony. How did you capture the gilded glamour while maintaining the brand’s aesthetic?
I reimagined Sadun returning to Istanbul, considering what he would want to wear and how the people all awaited his arrival. It’s a huge, nationwide celebration. I aimed to design contemporary tailoring that could reflect the excitement of this moment.
Can you discuss any specific cultural or historical references embedded within the collection that may not be immediately apparent to the viewer?
“Kismet” means “Destiny.” When you look at the sea, you can never predict when you will see the shore again. The tones of blues were a major inspiration from looking at the sea. That’s why I have many shades of blues in the collection.
How do you envision wearers interacting with and interpreting the pieces from this collection?
I don’t expect a certain outcome. I love people engaging with it in their own way. Of course, I prefer for people to delve into my stories. But I can’t force anyone. Sometimes they fall in love with the design without knowing what the inspiration was about. That’s fine too.
Lastly, what do you hope audiences take away from experiencing the Les Benjamins S/S 24 collection, both aesthetically and thematically?
Think outside of the box. Use the inspirations of your creativity in new ways. Don’t be afraid to blend things.
How does the collection reflect the idea of cultural exchange and connection between East and West, as suggested by the title “Kismet Voyage East to West”?
Silhouettes are inspired by the East. Sailing culture emerges from the West.
Could you encapsulate the essence of the Les Benjamins S/S 24 collection in three words that capture its themes, aesthetic, and message?
Deep blue sea.
