It wouldn’t be untrue to think of Jonathan Anderson’s spring 2024 ready-to-wear collection for Loewe as a continuation of the label’s last menswear offering back in June. Last season, the British designer churned out a lineup of chunky knits, ultra high-waisted trousers, argyle sweaters, and tops complete with hypersized pins, all of which made an appearance on the most recent collection for women. Presented at Chateau des Vincennes, a former fortress situated on the eastern edge of Paris, the runway was decorated with six large-scale bronze sculptures by Lynda Benglis, which Anderson had also brought together for the first time last season.
The designer and his Loewe team for this collection took a genderless approach to clothing, stitching up garments that you could easily share with your boyfriend. Meanwhile, other pieces, in the form of sparkly ballet flats, monochrome ruffled skirts, beautifully draped dresses, and a structured canary-colored gown with a larger-than-life clothes pin looped through the top, were more feminine.
But if there’s one thing Anderson can arguably do better than anyone else, it’s to take seemingly ordinary, everyday pieces and turn them into extraordinary garments. Buttery leather trench coats with built-in handbags proved functional and wearable, and were an ultimate standout, as were the chunky knit cardigans with disproportionately oversized gold buttons. Other not-so-basic basics included velvet trousers pulled up to there, blazers with unconventionally-placed pockets, t-shirts with chewed hemlines, and leather shorts threaded with a knitting needle in lieu of a belt.
But ultimately, Loewe is a house known for its know-how with craftsmanship— the cage top made up of crystal-embellished florals and the white fringed dress with tiered sleeves immediately come to mind. We have zero doubt that these pieces will be plastered all over editorial shoots and magazine covers in the weeks to come, as is the case with practically anything that Anderson creates. LVMH’s oldest luxury fashion house is the hottest brand in the world, after all.
