There’s more than one metric to evaluate the success of a luxury label’s runway show and ensuing collection of clothes. Usually, five main pointers stand out. They are: style, design, overall show, guests, and frenzy surrounding the brand’s name. Given the event that was strung mere days ago by Prada, it’s safe to say that the Italian powerhouse nailed all of the above.
On Thursday, Prada introduced its spring 2024 ready-to-wear collection, eagerly attended by some of the world’s most-followed celebrities and influencers at the brand’s own historic headquarters in Milan.
The front row was made up of American beauty mogul and reality television star Kylie Jenner, who was seen cozying up with Spanish hitmaker Rosalia, not too far away from esteemed Texan-born director Wes Anderson, British actor and activist Emma Watson, Euphoria star Hunter Shaefer, as well as French Cesar recipient Vincent Cassel, to mention just them.
Surrounding the emblematic Fondazione Prada, paparazzi and fans snapped each and every arrival to the star-studded event, which added an electrifying buzz to the atmosphere of this quite elitist fashion gathering. Once inside, and as each guest was finally sat, lights dimmed out, before a trans-lucid substance began dripping down from the ceiling onto the steel runway, which divided the glitzy room in half, almost serving as curtains between the audience and models, while setting the stage for what was about to come.
Honoring their age-old legacy in haute couture, creative director Miuccia Prada and partner-in-design, co-creative director Raf Simons, embarked on an artistic journey that weaves together threads of heritage and avant-garde expression simultaneously as the entire collection exuded an air of opulence, even in its most casual pieces. One standout element was the fusion of shirts and jackets, blending the structured lapels and shoulders of outerwear with the relaxed cuffs and button-down style of shirts.
Instead of opting for overtly bold statements, the offering embraced a sense of underlying refinement and elegance, noticed through materials, fabrics, and details that usually go unnoticed yet this time took center stage. Such was the case for the re-invented Prada handbag, inspired by a century-old iteration originally crafted by Prada’s founder, Miuccia’s grandfather, circa 1913. Now featuring a distinctive hand-carved closure depicting a mythological figure (a very scary face), cut-out Nappa leather, and re-nylon instead of its initial silk, the latest version of the handbag served as a testament to the label’s ability to not only pay homage to its rich heritage but also to continuously innovate.
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Mostly crafted from ethereal materials like organza, chiffon, or light cloth, the latest line showcased an array of fairy-like pieces, including floral-printed shirts, tight-fitting head caps, and generously oversized work jackets that elevated the collection into a dreamlike realm, stripping fashion from its overly pretentious edge as the creative designers intended it to be.
At times a tad more wearable in the workplace than others, the offering nonetheless maintained its whimsical charm with a touch of party, resulting in a line that is versatile enough to seamlessly transition from office to bar, from day to night, without a hint of sartorial compromise through mesh skirts, tailored-to-the-ankle onesie noir suits or knee-length cut dresses.
Blurring the line between smart-wear and unapologetic luxury, Prada’s latest runway presentation, which is always a highly anticipated highlight of fashion week, transcended the boundaries of opulence, for the pleasure of those who witnessed it firsthand as well as those who were eagerly awaiting for something fresh to grace runways from afar.
