In an increasingly competitive industry where each label vies to outdo the next, it can be quite difficult as a guest dotting from one runway show to the other to refrain from comparing each respective fashion brand’s collection.
As humans, we’re subconsciously compelled almost instinctively to draw contrasts between the creativity, craftsmanship, and experience, offered by each brand. And as we do that, we find ourselves adding another layer of competition to the already cut-throat world of fashion— a sentiment that Diesel seems to have fully taken into account when penciling a date for their spring 2024 ready-to-wear show during Milan Fashion Week on Wednesday.
In recent years, the Italian denim brand, which has been under the stewardship of Y/Project’s Glenn Martens for the past two-years, has seemingly mastered the formula to making sure Diesel’s name trends online, creates commotion, and leaves a long-lasting impression by notably pushing the limits through its stitched pieces and buzz-worthy campaigns and shows. After all, it’s only for the brave, as the slogan says.
Last time Diesel stepped out to disseminate its collection was back in February; a moment that was remembered fondly by viewers, ticket holders, and members of the press as 200,000 custom-made Durex condoms served as the backdrop of the presentation of its fall 2023 ready-to-wear show— clearly, someone was trying to pass a message.
Fast forward to now, two days after the official MFW calendar kicked off, and Diesel is back with another collection as well as another concept to simultaneously stun guests and get the internet talking.
As the sun sets over Milan’s grey sky and rain begins to fall, security is now letting the first few ticket-holders inside Scalo Farini, the venue chosen to play host to Marten’s sartorial experiments this season, opening its gates to some 7000 guests in total— 6000 of which were members of the general public who snatched the much-coveted (and free) show tickets in a matter of minutes after their announcement a few weeks prior.
Proving that inclusivity isn’t only a buzzword, but in fact a core principal Diesel relentlessly upholds, the label made its commitment to accessibility and diversity extend beyond mere rhetoric once again for the benefit of not just the fashion elite but for anyone who seeks to engage with design at the highest level.
Crowds were welcomed with a four-hour-long techno DJ set, which set a surprisingly laid-back atmosphere that set the tone for the lineup that was about to come.
The fashion show, which could compete with some of London’s most experimental raves, blurred the lines between runway spectacle and underground nightlife, creating an unforgettable sensory experience that left attendees only craving for more.
“Diesel loves to party, so we invited over 7000 people to our free rave, and then everybody to our free weekend film festival. The collection is the spirit of Diesel, democratic and experimental in every piece. I believe in living life to the fullest, that every day should be a party,” Martens shared in a statement.
Pre-drinks are now over, and the 26 x 16 meters screen that sat overlooking the stage started counting down the seconds to the grand reveal of Marten’s latest works, ones that screamed of Y2K club-wear by way of the era’s most popular cuts and fits, alongside a vibrant blend of our parent’s aesthetic with somewhat of a modern touch.
Denim, an emblem almost synonymous with the brand’s visual identity and heritage, was thrusted into the spotlight once again, through no ordinary revival that made most forget the standard rips and tears typically associated with the fabric. Via a collection that felt like a case study of the myriad of ways one can play with jean, pieces were messy and scruffy yet neat and refined, resulting in a fusion of rugged nonchalance and sophisticated flair which once again showcased the brand’s unconventional approach to fashion.
The collection also prioritized practicality, featuring zip-up tops, pants, and skirts that could be worn separately or as one-piece ensembles. Cargo pants received a redesign, sporting numerous pockets secured by straps. Belts themselves underwent a transformationwere ingeniously stitched together to craft a chic bandeau top or a trendy miniskirt; undoubtedly, a testament to the borderless creativity of Martens’ mind.
Aside from the clothing, an iconic moment to be remembered could be hearing the crowd cheering and screaming as they were erroneously convinced they had witnessed Bella Hadid closingt he show. It was, in fact, Dalton Dubois, a London-based model who had made her debut at Burberry in 2022and subsequently adorned the catwalks of esteemed labels like Acne Studios, Alexander McQueen, and Givenchy during the fall 2023 season. This uncanny resemblance not only fooled the live audience but also caught influential social media accounts off guard, leading them to initially report Hadid’s presence before humbly retracting their statements with sheepish acknowledgment.
With 71 distinctive looks, this spring 2024 ready-to-wear collection by Diesel defied expectations and went above and beyond to epitomize the brand’s dedication to thinking outside the box, delivering fresh fits, and continually redefining the very essence of contemporary fashion through XXL presentations, inclusive crowds, a rave underneath acid rain, and look-alikes that weren’t intended to be but still managed to make headlines. All in all, looking back, it’s safe to say that Diesel’s mission this season was accomplished.
